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Entering the European market for shea butter

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Exporters of nilotica shea butter to Europe must meet strict rules on quality, safety and sustainability. This study explains what exporters need to know about buyer expectations, certifications, prices and competition. Nilotica’s soft texture and high oleic acid content make it suitable for premium skincare. While awareness is still low, interest is growing, especially in countries like Germany, France and the UK. Success depends on clear product positioning and building long-term trust with buyers.

1. What certification and other requirements must nilotica shea butter meet to be allowed on the European market?

To export nilotica shea butter to the EU, exporters must follow a combination of mandatory legal requirements and additional buyer expectations. Because nilotica is still less known than paradoxa (West African shea), suppliers must make sure that their technical documentation and traceability systems are complete and correct to build buyer confidence. For a full overview of current EU rules, see the International Trade Centre portal and relevant European Commission guidance.

Table 1: Differences between nilotica shea butter and West African shea butter

CharacteristicNilotica shea butterWest African shea butter
ConsistencyButtery soft at 25°CHard, crumbly to waxy
ColourCream to pale yellow; soft, creamy butterWhite to ivory yellow
ScentMild but distinctDistinct
Melting point26-32°C34-44°C
Refractive Index (40°C)~1.471.460-1.475
Saponification value165-195

170-200

Unsaponifiable matter  2%

≥4%

Source: GIZ Sector Brief Uganda: Nilotica shea butter, 2021

What are the mandatory requirements?

Exporters of nilotica shea butter from low and middle-income countries (LMICs) can only export to the European cosmetics market if their products comply with the EU’s mandatory legal requirements for natural cosmetic ingredients. If you do not comply with these requirements, your shea butter will not be allowed on the EU market.

Legal requirements

The cosmetics legislation for final products contains the specific mandatory requirements for cosmetic ingredients. The European Cosmetic Regulation (EC 1223/2009) is the main regulation for cosmetic products for the EU market, giving a high level of protection for human health. In May 2025, this regulation was updated by Regulation (EU) 2025/877 to include new restrictions on substances that can cause cancer, harm reproduction or change DNA (so-called CMR substances).

The use of restricted ingredients is subject to specific conditions and warnings, and products may only contain small amounts of them. Shea butter, including the nilotica variant, is not restricted or listed as a hazardous ingredient.

European law demands that manufacturers prepare a Cosmetic Product Safety Report before placing a cosmetic product on the EU market. These documents require data on the composition and other quality and safety parameters of the ingredients used. Thus, suppliers need to provide well-structured documentation on the physical-chemical composition of their products, including information on their purity, microbiological quality and toxicological profile. Required detailed documentation includes:

Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals (REACH)

Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals (REACH) (Regulation (EC) 1907/2006) was made to protect human health and the environment from chemicals manufactured and used in the EU. Chemical substances that fall within the range of REACH need to be registered with the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) by the importer or manufacturer. Cosmetic ingredients (including natural ingredients) are chemical substances and need to be registered, unless the rules don't apply. The registration requirement applies to importers and manufacturers of non-exempt substances who import or manufacture more than 1 tonne per year.

Pure nilotica shea butter and all other unmodified vegetable fats and oils don't have to be registered, no matter how much you import or make. This does not apply to chemically modified nilotica shea by-products. These must be registered by the EU manufacturer or importer, unless the volume remains below 1 tonne per importer per year. There is also a procedure that allows non-European companies to register their substances with ECHA. This is not mandatory, but a registration number can make it easier to sell a non-exempt substance to manufacturers.

Classification, Labelling and Packaging of chemicals (CLP)

The Classification, Labelling and Packaging of Chemicals Regulation (CLP) from 2008 was updated in 2023 by Delegated Regulation (EU) 2023/707 and aims to ensure that the hazards presented by chemicals are clearly communicated to workers and consumers in the EU. The regulation requires European manufacturers and importers to classify, label and package hazardous chemicals appropriately before placing them on the market. The CLP is the European legislation derived from the UN Globally Harmonised System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals (GHS). Most countries have established similar legislation based on the GHS. Hazard labels and safety data sheets are used to communicate the presence of a hazard to the user. The CLP sets detailed criteria for the labelling elements and typically applies to by-products or blends. Pure nilotica shea butter is rarely classified as hazardous. It is however recommended you consult your freight forwarder or buyer to confirm.

Tips:

  • Implement a basic HACCP or GMP system to ensure consistent quality. This helps you prevent contamination and meet European hygiene expectations.
  • See our workbook on preparing a technical dossier for cosmetic ingredients for more information and tips on documentation requirements.
  • Adopt and share a code of conduct with your buyers. This shows your commitment to fair, safe and responsible sourcing.
  • Register your company with SEDEX or Amfori BSCI to demonstrate compliance. These recognised platforms make your ethical data visible to European partners.
  • Document your community impact and environmental protection efforts. This strengthens your value proposition.

What additional requirements do buyers often have?

Besides mandatory requirements, buyers often have additional requirements related to quality, food safety and sustainability. In general, European buyers often want transparency and traceability across the entire supply chain, which has consequences for you as a supplier. Note that the processing of nuts has a major impact on the quality of nilotica shea butter.

Quality requirements

Cosmetics manufacturers expect nilotica shea butter to meet specific quality standards, including low concentrations of impurities, free fatty acids (FFA) and peroxide. These parameters are important to make sure the butter maintains its moisturising properties and stability in cosmetic formulations. Nilotica shea butter, when properly handled, typically has a lower stearic content and higher oleic acid levels than West African varieties. However, due to its more delicate nature, it is also more sensitive to poor post-harvest handling.

Most cosmetics manufacturers prefer neutral-coloured and odourless ingredients with a long shelf life. Unrefined nilotica butter typically has a creamy, pale ivory tone and a mild nutty aroma. While some natural cosmetics brands appreciate this authentic character, others require refined and deodorised butter to meet formulation standards. In such cases, fractionation is often applied to adjust the melting profile or improve textural stability in an emulsion.

Some recommendations for nilotica shea nut handling and processing include:

  • Harvest fallen fruits within 2-3 days to minimise microbial exposure. Remove pulp carefully and wash nuts to eliminate residues.
  • Boil nuts for 30-40 minutes to deactivate enzymes, then sun-dry thoroughly within 3-4 days. Store only once the moisture content is below 7% to avoid the product going bad.
  • Use breathable materials like jute sacks and store in well-ventilated, shaded areas to keep kernels intact.
  • Match buyer preferences. Artisanal (handcrafted) methods are appreciated for traceability and impact stories, while mechanical pressing may be required to keep amounts even and exports refined.

For premium and mainstream cosmetics markets, strict adherence to hygiene, quality control and documentation practices, such as certificates of analysis and fatty acid profiles, is essential for building trust and securing long-term partnerships.

Quality management standards

European buyers of shea butter for cosmetics often expect suppliers to follow Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points (HACCP) principles in their processing facilities to make sure that the product is safe for cosmetic applications.

As a cosmetics ingredient producer you do not have to use Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). However, if you can follow them, it can provide a competitive advantage. The European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients has created guidelines to help producerscarry out GMP in their companies. It also offers its own certification scheme. Following basic GMP and the HACCP principles will help you to deliver a good and reliable level of quality.

Some European buyers of cosmetic ingredients also require suppliers to follow more comprehensive safety standards. These are often the same standards as those used by the food industry. Examples of these safety management systems include:

  • Food safety management certification (ISO 22000).
  • Food Safety System Certification (FSSC22000), based on ISO 22000 and aimed specifically at food manufacturers.

Labelling requirements

Under the CLP regulation, suppliers of nilotica shea butter need to include product documentation and labelling. Labelling must include:

  • Product name/International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) name
  • Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS) number
  • Batch code or number
  • Place of origin
  • Name and address of exporter
  • Date of manufacture
  • Best before date
  • Net weight or content
  • Recommended storage conditions
  • If you produce organic nilotica shea butter, include the name/code of the inspection body and certification number.

Label your products in English, unless your buyer wants you to use a different language.

Packaging requirements

Next to legal requirements for packaging chemicals, European buyers also have their own packaging requirements to make sure of the quality of products. When exporting nilotica shea butter, you can refer to the West African shea butter packaging requirements and the most commonly used products. Suppliers should use containers made of a material that does not react with components of the butter (such as aluminium, or lacquered or lined steel). You can also use polythene-lined boxes.

Clean and dry the containers before loading the butter. The containers should be sealed airtight and be tamper-proof to prevent oxygen exchange and reduce butter decay over time.

Prepare bulk shea butter for transportation in one of the following ways:

  • 10 or 25 kg plastic-lined cardboard cartons;
  • 25 kg plastic buckets;
  • 50-200 litre metal or plastic drums; or
  • 900 kg IBC (Intermediate Bulk Container), flexitank or isotanks.

Other general recommendations regarding packaging are:

  • Always ask your buyer for their specific packaging requirements;
  • Re-use or recycle packaging materials (use containers made of recyclable material, for example);
  • Store containers in a cool, dry place to prevent quality deterioration;
  • Physically separate organic-certified shea butter from shea butter that is not certified.

Tips:

  • Have a batch traceability system made for nilotica shea butter, whether sold as single-origin or blended batches. Proper labelling and documentation will help you ensure full traceability from harvest to export, which European buyers increasingly expect.
  • Consult the Codex Alimentarius standard for named vegetable oils to understand general quality criteria relevant to all vegetable fats and oils, including thresholds for free fatty acids, moisture and peroxide levels.
  • Follow the Good Agricultural and Collection Practices (GACP) for wild-harvested nilotica shea nuts. Post-harvest handling is particularly critical to preserving the butter’s high oleic profile and bioactive properties. You can also consult the Global Shea Alliance Quality Guidelines.
  • Maintain strict hygiene in processing facilities and equipment. Nilotica shea butter is highly valued for its purity and bioactivity, so any contamination, whether microbial, physical or chemical, can compromise its marketability, especially in cosmetics.
  • Preserve key natural properties through cold-press extraction, ideally using low-heat mechanical methods. Avoid excessive heat or chemical refining that could degrade the butter’s unique unsaponifiables, oleic acid content and mild texture.

If you need to refine your product, exporters should work together with certified local processors or European partners. They should be experienced in handling organic, COSMOS-compliant or Fair for Life-certified materials. This helps to make sure that the butter’s quality and structure are kept intact.

What are the requirements for niche markets?

Growing consumer concerns about social and environmental impacts are pushing European buyers to follow stricter sustainability requirements. This is mainly the case for niche markets like natural, organic and fair trade cosmetics. This trend is particularly relevant for nilotica shea butter, which is promoted as a premium ethical ingredient due to its superior sensorial qualities and traceability potential.

Buyers are asking for compliance with certifications and clear and credible origin stories that include aspects such as women’s empowerment, forest preservation and regenerative sourcing models. Nilotica is often harvested by hand in biodiverse parklands across Uganda and South Sudan. This makes it in line with the ethical sourcing stories promoted in these niche markets.

Below is a table of standards and certifications valued in niche cosmetics markets for ingredients such as nilotica shea butter.

Table 2: Standards and certifications valued in niche cosmetics markets for ingredients

Niche marketStandards and certificationsRemarks
Natural cosmetics

Both COSMOS and NATRUE accept cold-pressed or mechanically extracted nilotica butter without synthetic solvents. Approved solvents include CO₂, plant-based ethanol, glycerine and natural deep eutectic solvents.

Nilotica’s high oleic acidity and lower melt profile contribute to a hydrating and fast-absorbing texture, ideal for natural skincare. ISO 16128 provides a self-declared plant origin standard, useful for smaller processors. Learn more about shea butter extraction technologies.

Organic cosmetics

For nilotica butter to be marketed as organic, the sourcing system must comply with certified wild collection or agroforestry protocols.

Uganda’s National Organic Agricultural Movement (NOGAMU) and Ecocert East Africa are active in certifying wild shea collection.

Fair trade and ethical sourcing

Community-based nilotica programmes can achieve Fair for Life certification, ensuring fair wages, women’s empowerment and community reinvestment.

Fair trade shea prices can be higher than conventional butter rates. UEBT certification verifies biodiversity benefits and benefit-sharing across the supply chain.

Biodiversity- and traceability-focused buyers

These programmes enable traceable supply chains documenting the geolocation of shea parklands, preserving pollinator habitats and carbon-rich agroforestry systems.

Buyers increasingly require digital audit trails through UEBT’s online tools or GSA’s Sustainable Shea Management Toolkit.

Source: ProFound, 2025

Sustainability

European buyers face growing regulatory pressure to ensure that the ingredients they source are produced under socially responsible and environmentally sustainable conditions. This includes compliance with initiatives such as the European Green Deal and the upcoming Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD). These regulations aim to hold companies accountable for the social and environmental impact of their global supply chains and will have implications for exporters of nilotica shea butter who wish to access the European market.

Because of this regulatory context, traceability and transparency have become non-negotiable. European buyers increasingly require documented proof that nilotica shea butter can be traced back to the regions, villages and communities where it was harvested and processed. This is especially important for nilotica butter, which is largely wild harvested by women’s cooperatives in Uganda and neighbouring countries. Documenting the origin and ensuring traceability helps buyers verify the sustainability of harvesting practices and confirm compliance with ethical sourcing standards.

To remain competitive, exporters of nilotica shea butter should implement clear Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) practices, including:

  • A written code of conduct outlining social and environmental principles;
  • Concrete efforts to improve working conditions, especially for women collectors and processors; and
  • Measures to protect the shea parklands as important carbon sinks and biodiversity habitats.

Exporters are also encouraged to use global sustainability platforms like the Supplier Ethical Data Exchange (SEDEX) or Amfori BSCI to register their practices. These platforms help businesses demonstrate their commitment to ethical trade, share relevant documentation with buyers, and prepare for potential due diligence assessments.

As nilotica shea butter is still a niche product, it can help to showcase social impact, such as women’s empowerment and environmental benefits like the preservation of wild shea landscapes. This will allow you to market your product as a premium and responsible choice for European cosmetic brands. Failing to provide evidence of sustainability and traceability may result in losing out on contracts, especially as these requirements are quickly becoming standard across the European cosmetics industry.

2. Through which channels can nilotica shea butter enter the European market?

Unlike West African shea, which supplies both the food and cosmetics industries, East African nilotica is mainly positioned in the cosmetics and personal-care sector, where demand for traceable, ethical and high-performance natural ingredients is growing.

Most nilotica shea butter is exported from Uganda, with smaller amounts produced in South Sudan and Kenya. It is not subject to specific trade restrictions. As with other agricultural commodities, standard export procedures apply. Exporters do not require a special export license for nilotica shea butter or its kernels. They must choose the most suitable route to market depending on their production scale, certification status and ability to meet buyers’ documentation and quality requirements.

Unlike the large-scale industrial processing model seen in West Africa, Uganda’s export of nilotica tends to focus more on mechanically extracted butter, often processed directly in local facilities or by small-scale women’s cooperatives. Transporting kernels is generally more expensive than exporting finished butter, which makes on-site value addition a more viable option for exporters.

Based on the experience of West Africa, where the European market is relatively consolidated, the landscape has large distributors and processors managing bulk imports for both the food and cosmetics industries. These companies typically rely on established supply networks and require consistent volumes, quality documentation and certification to consider new sourcing relationships.

However, for small and medium-sized nilotica shea butter exporters, niche segments like premium cosmetics, natural skincare and dermocosmetics offer more flexible entry points. These markets value traceability, ethical sourcing, and quality over volume, making them a better fit for nilotica’s production model.

Exporters who offer mechanically pressed, traceable nilotica shea butter with supporting documentation, such as organic certification, quality tests and sustainability standards, can improve their credibility and access more buyers. Supplying butter rather than kernels also helps reduce shipping costs and strengthens product differentiation.

How is the end-market segmented?

The European cosmetics market for nilotica shea butter can be segmented into three main end-use and quality segments. Each have different buyer requirements and opportunities for exporters:

Table 3: Main European distribution channels for nilotica shea butter

SegmentMarket characteristicsExamples of players
Mass and mid-range cosmetics

Used by large industrial brands that source refined or fractionated shea butter in bulk; focus on stable quality, neutral odour and competitive pricing; volumes are high but entry barriers include scale and certification requirements.

L’OréalBeiersdorf, Unilever suppliers (via OlveaAAK).
Natural and dermocosmetic brands

Demand high-quality, traceable and often organic nilotica butter for skincare, baby care and wellness lines. They value purity and social impact, and offer the best fit for SME exporters.

WeledaMelvitaDr. HauschkaOnatera.
Premium and niche brands

Require unrefined or semi-refined butter with a clear origin story; small but fast-growing segment; high margins for exporters who can ensure consistent batches and storytelling.

Akoma Skincare (UK), RA EGYPTIAN (USA).

Source: ProFound, 2025

3. Through which channels does nilotica shea butter reach the European market?

Nilotica shea butter can reach European buyers through several key business channels. Understanding how each of these channels works can help exporters choose the most efficient route based on their size and capacity.

How is the end-market segmented?

The European market for nilotica shea butter can be segmented by end-user industries: cosmetics, food and health products. Although nilotica is still not as common a product as West African shea butter, Figure 1 shows how nilotica shea butter is used in different segments of the European market.

This study focuses on nilotica shea butter used in the cosmetics industry.

Figure 1: Export value chain for nilotica shea butter

Figure 1 - Export value chain for nilotica shea butter

Source: CBI, 2025

Through which channels does nilotica shea butter reach the European end-market?

Nilotica shea butter passes through several channels before arriving on the European market. It is extracted from the nuts of the Vitellaria nilotica tree, primarily by hand or through mechanical pressing. Nilotica typically reaches Europe in its raw, semi-refined or fully refined form, depending on the buyer’s requirements.

Importers and distributors

In the European market, importers play a central role in sourcing nilotica shea butter. These companies typically work with exporters, supplying refined ingredients to cosmetic labs or brands across Europe. Nilotica shea butter is a more premium and niche ingredient. This means that importers often seek long-term, transparent relationships with reliable suppliers to ensure product quality and traceability.

Importers are responsible for coordinating logistics, certifications and customs clearance. However they also expect exporters to deliver key technical documentation such as certificates of analysis, organic certificates and safety data sheets. Most importers test incoming batches for quality and conformity, so exporters should also conduct pre-shipment quality checks.

Importers of nilotica shea butter include:

  • The Savannah Fruits Company (Ghana), sources and promotes East African shea alongside the well-established West African variant.
  • AKOMA SKINCARE (UK), known for working directly with East African women’s cooperatives, including in Uganda, and marketing organic nilotica as a luxury skincare base ingredient.
  • All Organic Treasures (Austria), includes nilotica shea butter in its catalogue due to its softness, unsaponifiables and high oleic content.

Some importers are beginning to focus exclusively on traceable and fair trade shea. One of these companies is Wild Origins, a German boutique importer specialised in organic East African oils, with a particular focus on supporting community-based sourcing models in Uganda and South Sudan.

Refiners and processors

For cosmetic applications, nilotica shea butter may undergo refining to remove odour and improve stability. Many premium brands however also seek unrefined versions due to nilotica’s naturally mild scent and soft texture. Large-scale refiners are less likely to work with small exporters, unless they can guarantee full container loads and regular volumes.

European refiners currently offering refining services for shea butter include:

  • Natura-Tec (France), which produces speciality African oils.
  • Olvea (France), a leading supplier of vegetable and omega fish oils with plant processors in Africa.
  • Oleon (Belgium), known for its R&D in shea fractions, has started testing pilot batches of East African butter for its dermocosmetic applications.
  • Groupe Emile (France) uses a traditional artisanal method of production, relying on carefully maintained, old-fashioned screw presses to slowly and gently extract the oil.

Formulators and cosmetic ingredient manufacturers

Formulators develop custom cosmetic blends and often use refined or high-purity unrefined nilotica shea butter. This is because of their excellent dermal absorption and high content of therapeutic unsaponifiables. These labs may contract third-party refiners and help design finished skincare products for European brands focused on sensitive skin or baby care.

European formulators already using shea butter include:

  • Croda, which processes nilotica extracts and supplies a large catalogue of international quality ingredients, including performance active ingredients and multifunctional formulation ingredients.
  • AAK, which specialises in enhancing the performance and efficacy of natural lipids and optimises their use in cosmetic formulations. Winner of the 2025 in-cosmetics Silver Green Ingredient Award with LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™, a naturally derived, eco-friendly shea emollient ester.

Cosmetics brands and contract manufacturers

Direct sourcing from small exporters is uncommon due to the complexity of logistics and low volumes. However, some cosmetics brands are beginning to partner with producers,. This is mainly seen when aiming to develop storytelling around traceability, biodiversity and women’s empowerment.

Most manufacturers, however, still prefer to source refined butter from importers or refiners. If you aim to supply to manufacturers directly, expect strict requirements in terms of quality control, regulatory documentation and consistent supply capabilities.

Some examples are:

  • Pure=Beauty, a cosmetic brand offering vegan products and Ecocert Cosmos-certified natural cosmetics, made in Helsinki, Finland, using nilotica shea butter.
  • Onatera, a  French wellness and natural health retail brand and e-commerce platform, specialising in natural supplements, organic cosmetics, herbal products and essential oils.          

What is the most interesting channel for you?

For small and medium-sized exporters of nilotica shea butter from East Africa, the most promising route to market is through specialised importers and distributors supplying natural and dermocosmetic brands. These brands produce skincare products that combine cosmetic benefits with dermatological science. They are designed to improve skin health and treat specific conditions such as dryness, acne or sensitivity.

Buyers in this category offer:

  • Easier market access and compliance support (REACH, documentation, logistics);
  • Long-term relationships based on transparency and origin traceability;
  • Opportunities to scale through co-branding and certification (organic, Fair for Life, UEBT).

Refiners and formulators are the second most relevant channel for exporters, offering higher capacity and quality control systems. Direct supply to cosmetic brands remains a niche option for highly specialised producers with established European partnerships.

Tips:

  • Focus on importers and distributors specialised in natural and ethical ingredients; they are the most accessible partners for SME exporters;
  • Prepare comprehensive technical documentation (CoA, SDS, organic certification) before approaching buyers. This streamlines negotiations;
  • Attend trade fairs such as in-cosmetics Global or Natexpo to meet importers and formulators;
  • Highlight traceability, women’s empowerment and biodiversity protection in your marketing materials; European buyers value strong origin stories;
  • Export refined or semi-refined butter rather than kernels to reduce freight costs and increase product value.

4. What competition do you face on the European market for nilotica shea butter?

The European cosmetics market is paying increasing attention to East African shea butter, particularly the nilotica variety. This is because of its softer texture, high oleic acid content, and superior moisturising and sensorial properties. The nilotica segment is still in its early stages of development, representing less than 1% of global shea trade. It is however expected to grow rapidly alongside the clean-beauty and ethical-sourcing trends in Europe.

Which countries are you competing with?

As an exporter of nilotica shea butter to Europe, you will compete with West African producers that currently dominate the shea market. Countries like Ghana, Burkina Faso and Nigeria lead global exports, mainly with paradoxa shea butter, supported by large-scale processing and strong buyer networks. While these suppliers focus on volume and price, nilotica exporters can stand out with quality, ethical sourcing and unique product properties. Knowing the strengths and weaknesses of these competitors helps position nilotica more effectively in Europe’s cosmetic sector.

Ghana

Ghana is the world’s leading exporter of shea butter and kernels, supplying both the food and cosmetics industries. It has a well-established industrial base with large processing facilities and organised collector networks supported by the Global Shea Alliance. Ghanaian processors benefit from reliable infrastructure, logistics and long-term partnerships with major buyers such as AAK and Olvea. The country’s reputation for consistent quality and certified production (organic, fair trade) makes it a dominant player.

Burkina Faso

Burkina Faso is another key exporter of shea butter and kernels, second only to Ghana. The country has invested heavily in women-led cooperatives and small processing units, supported by fair trade and organic certification schemes. Shea from Burkina Faso has a positive image in terms of social impact and community empowerment. Its main weakness is limited industrial capacity compared to Ghana and dependence on small-scale manual processing, which can affect volume consistency. Burkina Faso’s butter competes directly in natural cosmetics markets that also attract nilotica buyers, especially brands prioritising ethical sourcing.

Nigeria

Nigeria has vast shea resources and large collection areas across its Middle Belt, but its exports remain focused on raw kernels rather than finished butter. Most processing is small-scale and fragmented, with limited quality control and traceability systems. This makes Nigeria a strong low-cost competitor but a weak player in the high-value cosmetics segment. For nilotica exporters, this situation reinforces the advantage of investing in quality, safety documentation and certification. This makes you able to access buyers who prioritise transparency and performance over price.

Mali and Côte d’Ivoire

Mali and Côte d’Ivoire are smaller exporters but have growing roles in the regional shea trade through industrial processors and cooperatives linked to international buyers. Both countries benefit from regional logistics corridors and membership of the Global Shea Alliance, which promotes standardised processing and market access. Malian shea butter is often exported through re-export hubs in Ghana or Senegal, while Côte d’Ivoire’s production mainly serves the food sector. Their competitiveness lies in volume and supply stability rather than product differentiation.

Which companies are you competing with?

Many shea processors from developing countries have already been successful in exporting their products to the European market. Below are 4 examples of such companies.

Akoma Skincare (UK/Ghana/Uganda)

Akoma works directly with women’s cooperatives in Ghana and Uganda to produce organic and fair trade shea butter. It markets nilotica butter as a luxury skincare base ingredient. The company’s model illustrates how vertically integrated sourcing and social storytelling can add value and visibility in the European market.

Olvea (France/Burkina Faso)

Olvea refines shea and other vegetable oils for cosmetics. It operates in West Africa and markets organic and fair trade butters. Its traceability systems and European refining facilities give it strong credibility. Nilotica exporters can compete by offering smaller-batch, less industrialised butter with a distinct sensorial profile.

Ladgroup (Nigeria)

Ladgroup is one of Nigeria’s largest shea kernel processors and exporters, with a modern facility in Ogun State. The company focuses on high-volume kernel exports and refined shea butter production for the food and cosmetics industries. Ladgroup holds certifications such as ISO and Halal, and has positioned itself as a key player in Nigeria’s growing shea sector. At the same time, its exports focus more on bulk and food-grade shea butter. The company's industrial capacity, traceability systems and expanding cosmetic-grade offerings present growing competition for East African exporters.

Karethic (France/Mali)

Karethic partners with cooperatives in northern Benin and Mali to produce high-quality, unrefined shea butter for cosmetics. It markets its butter as 'raw and artisinal', targeting clean beauty and wellness brands. The company positions its product as traceable and socially responsible. This highlights a growing space in Europe for origin-based storytelling and small-batch production, which aligns with nilotica’s positioning.

Figure 2: Akoma Skincare social initiatives in Ghana

Figure 2 - Akoma Skincare social initiatives in Ghana

Source: Akoma Skincare, 2025

Which products are you competing with?

Nilotica shea butter competes with other vegetable butters and exotic fats used in cosmetics. Shea’s key advantage is its combination of functionality, affordability and availability, and its natural marketing appeal. In fact, shea is perceived to be more sustainable than other competing fat sources.

The main substitute product for shea butter is cocoa butter. However, according to industry sources, many formulators are not substituting but blending cocoa butter and shea butter to combine their properties in a cost-efficient way. Other exotic butters and oils with similar properties and common uses include: illipe butter, murumuru butter, cupuaçu butter, mango butter and cocoa butter. 

Figure 3: Shea butter, cocoa butter and mango butter

Figure 3 - Shea butter, cocoa butter and mango butter

Source: Actibio CosmeticsShop Market AfricaElsie Organics, 2025

Have a look at Table 4 to get a better understanding of shea’s competitive advantages over other butters. The prices listed should only be considered as guidelines.

Table 4: Examples of product substitution for shea butter

ButterMain usesCompetitive featuresIndicative price range (Europe, 2025)
Shea butter (nilotica & paradoxa)Soaps, lotions, creams, hair conditioners, lip balmsHighly emollient; rich in oleic and stearic acids; long shelf life (up to 2 years); ideal viscosity and stability for cosmetics.€8-12/kg (refined/organic retail)
Cocoa butterLip balms, body butters, moisturisersRich in stearic and oleic acids; solid at room temperature; distinctive chocolate scent; often blended with shea for cost and texture.€30-400/kg (wholesale to retail)
Murumuru butterCreams, soaps, shampoosHigh lauric and myristic acid content; provides gloss and smoothness; exotic and costly.≈€50-85/kg (retail)
Mango butterBody creams, hair treatments, colour cosmeticsSimilar composition to cocoa and shea; light texture; good absorption; moderate price.≈€14-35/kg (retail)
Cupuaçu butterBody butters, conditioners, hair masksVery high water retention; enhances elasticity; premium positioning; limited supply.€35-60/kg (retail)
Kokum butterLip balms, balms, skin repair productsFirm texture; neutral scent; used in solid formulations; niche but stable demand.€40-60/kg (retail)

Source: ProFound, 2025

5. What are the prices of nilotica shea butter on the European market? 

When a European consumer buys a cosmetic product that contains nilotica shea butter, the money they spend is shared by many actors. The following breakdown is based on the financial and cost analyses presented in the CSJ Uganda Shea Market Study (2024) and reflects the structure of Uganda’s nilotica value chain, from collectors to European brands:

  • Collectors and primary processors (30-35%): These are mostly women who collect and process the shea nuts. They earn about US$260–440 per tonne of dried kernels. Their work is essential because the quality of the butter starts at this stage.
  • Exporters (15-20%): This share covers the cost of processing, packaging and preparing export documents. It also includes quality control and certification such as organic or Fair for Life, which help exporters sell at higher prices.
  • Transport, insurance and customs (5-8%): Moving goods from Uganda to Europe is costly because Uganda has no seaport. This part includes transport to Mombasa, export taxes and international shipping fees.
  • Importers and distributors (10-15%): These are companies in Europe that buy your butter, check its quality and then sell it to cosmetics manufacturers. They also handle storage and delivery to different clients.
  • Cosmetics brands and retailers (25-35%): These companies use nilotica shea butter in their creams, lotions and balms. They add value through product formulation, packaging and marketing before selling to consumers at a higher price.

The starting point for all price information is to have a thorough understanding of your costs, to which you then add a reasonable margin. Whether your nilotica shea butter can replace other natural ingredients depends on its properties, its origin, relevant market trends and price levels. It also depends on what the manufacturer plans to use the nilotica shea butter for, the positioning of their brand and their company image. Once a manufacturer has included a specific ingredient in a cosmetic product, substitution with new ingredients becomes more difficult and expensive.

Tips:

  • Differentiate your product through strong CSR, sustainability and traceability practices. Buyers reward suppliers who show transparency and positive community impact.
  • Compare nilotica shea butter with other oils and butters. Demonstrate its unique texture, purity and oleic content, which helps position it in higher-value segments.
  • Build a clear marketing story around nilotica’s origin and tradition of use, highlighting its benefits for women collectors and local communities.
  • Calculate your prices accurately under different Incoterms; clear quotations (EXW, FOB, CIF) demonstrate professional knowledge and simplify negotiations.
  • Know how your product compares to competitors and be confident about your quality, certifications and service. This will benefit your buyer relationships.

ProFound – Advisers in Development carried out this study on behalf of CBI. 

Please review our market information disclaimer.

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The Nilotica Shea Association will serve as a collaborative platform to unite stakeholders across the value chain. It aims to empower women collectors through training and fair trade, advocate for supportive policies, promote nilotica shea as a unique mono-ingredient, and strengthen business links. Together, we strive for sustainability, equity and global recognition of nilotica shea.

Marion Etiang Busingye

Marion Etiang Busingye, President of the Nilotica Shea Association and Founder and CEO of MOHCA Beauty & Skincare