Entering the European market for dresses and skirts

Some of the world’s most interesting apparel markets are in Europe. However, setting up a business relationship with a European buyer can be challenging. You need to investigate the different European markets and sales channels and set realistic goals so you will be able to measure your performance and success.

1. What requirements and certifications must dresses and skirts meet to be allowed on the European market?

You need to comply with several legal and non-legal requirements when exporting dresses and skirts to Europe. Some requirements are voluntary, but meeting them can give you a competitive advantage. Others only apply to certain niches in the dresses and skirts market.

What are mandatory requirements?

There are several legal requirements for exporting dresses and skirts to Europe, including those concerning product safety, the use of chemicals (REACH), quality, and labelling. Check the EU Access2Markets online helpdesk for an overview.

Follow these steps to ensure that your product complies with the relevant legal requirements:

1. Make sure your product complies with the EU’s General Product Safety Regulation (GPSR: 2023/988). If your buyer supplied the product design, it is their responsibility to guarantee it is legally safe for end consumers to use.
2. Make sure you comply with the EU’s REACH Regulation. It restricts the use of chemicals in apparel and trims, including certain azo-dyes, flame retardants, waterproofing and stain-repelling chemicals, and nickel. Test input materials before production to prevent non-compliance.
3. Pay particular attention to the following safety standard that applies to dresses and skirts for children: EN 14682. It contains requirements to ensure that cords and drawstrings are placed safely on apparel for children up to age 14.
4. Specify the material composition of every item of dresses and skirts that you export to the EU, in line with Regulation (EU) 1007/2011. Check the EU Access2Markets online helpdesk on how to do so.
5. Do not violate any intellectual property (IP) rights, and do not copy or share designs with other buyers. If your buyer provides the design, they will be liable if the item is found to violate a property right.

Figure 1: If you produce children’s apparel, make sure it complies with EU safety standards for children's wear

Source: Birgith Roosipuu via Unsplash 

Non-legal mandatory requirements

Buyers may confront you with additional, company-specific terms and conditions. Such requirements are usually written in a buyer manual. By signing a contract with your buyer, you confirm that you will comply with all the requirements listed in the manual. You will be held accountable in case of a problem after the delivery of an order. If a buyer does not have a manual, make sure all terms and conditions are clear and agreed upon beforehand to avoid unpleasant surprises. 

The following topics may be included in a buyer manual.

Payment terms

For first-time orders, European buyers may give you a down payment via bank transfer (for instance 30%). They will pay the rest (70%) before shipment, again via bank transfer, or bank guarantee. This statement guarantees that the sum will be paid at a certain date.

Another payment method is the L/C (Letter of Credit). With an L/C, the buyer’s bank must pay the supplier when both parties meet the conditions they have agreed upon. This is the safest payment method for a manufacturer. An L/C can also be used to get finance to purchase materials. Many buyers don’t favour L/C payments, because the payable amount is blocked in their bank account to secure payment.

For follow-up orders, most European buyers will ask for a TT (Telegraphic Transfer/Open Account) after 30, 60, 90 or sometimes even 120 days. This means that payment will be made the agreed number of days after you have handed over the shipment. You as the manufacturer take full financial risk.

Delivery terms

Free on Board (FOB) is the standard Incoterm used by buyers and sellers to agree on the delivery of goods. Some buyers may ask you to agree to Delivery Duty Paid (DDP) due to rising shipping costs. This is the riskiest Incoterm for you as a manufacturer.

Nominated suppliers

Some buyers may require you to purchase materials from a nominated supplier. This means that you are responsible for the ordering, delivery and payment of materials. This may negatively impact your flexibility, cost, speed and liquidity. Discuss locally available solutions with your buyer to replace nominated suppliers.

Acceptance quality limit

Your buyer may set an acceptance quality limit (AQL). This refers to the worst quality level that is still acceptable. For instance, AQL 2.5 means that your buyer will reject a batch if more than 2.5% of the items are defective.

Packaging requirements

Your buyer will instruct you how to package the order. If you agree to delivering Free on Board (FOB), your buyer will clear customs in the country of import. It is their responsibility to ensure instructions on the packaging comply with EU import procedures.

Make sure to minimise unnecessary packaging materials by not packing each individual item and avoiding empty space. Use reusable packaging (reusable cardboard boxes for instance) and choose packaging containing recycled materials (such as recycled cardboard, including hangers) or biodegradable plastics (polybags). Provide clear labelling for recycling and composition.

Restricted substances

Ask your buyer if they use a Restricted Substances List (RSL). These lists are often based on the guideline on safe chemicals use from the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) foundation or AFIRM.

Certification

Many European buyers require suppliers to get certified for sustainable and/or fair production or the use of sustainable materials. The most popular standards and certifications in Europe include WRAP, SA8000, Sedex, B-corp, OEKO-TEX® STeP, GOTS and Recycled Claim Standard.

Amfori provides a list of organisations that can perform an audit. Note that Amfori BSCI is almost a standard requirement for many European apparel companies.

Transparency

Supply chain transparency is key for the European apparel industry. Disclose information about your own operations to buyers, and help them to gain as much insight as possible into your entire supply chain and the materials used.

The new Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR, 2024) will introduce a Digital Products Passport, a digital identity card for garments and materials. Information on this card can include:

• The product’s technical performance;
• Materials and their origins;
• Repair activities;
• Recycling capabilities;
• Lifecycle environmental impacts.

Worker happiness

Your buyer may require that you pay attention to diversity and inclusion in your workforce. All individuals in your company should have equal opportunities, regardless of gender, race, religion or other characteristics. Watch the CBI webinar on worker happiness for background information and tips.

Animal welfare

If you use natural protein fibres such as wool (including speciality wools such as merino, alpaca, cashmere or silk), animal welfare is an important concern. Buyers may require that you only use RWS-certified wool. If you use merino, buyers may require that you use only non-mulesing wool.

Regenerative agriculture

Regenerative agriculture  is a concept focused on phasing out harmful fertilisers and pesticides and ‘regenerating’ nature. Several large European apparel retail groups have set goals in this area, including H&M and Inditex.

Carbon footprint

Many European brands have committed to climate neutrality. Calculating the CO2-footprint of an apparel item is a complicated process, which starts with carefully measuring your emissions before reducing them. Read our tips to measure and reduce your carbon emissions for more information.

Recycling

The EU is introducing new legal measures to increase circularity, including new directives on durability and ecodesign of textile products and a ‘right to repair’. The EU is also considering the introduction of an EU-wide extended producer responsibility (EPR) for apparel. This makes companies responsible for the way their products are disposed of, recycled or repaired. Some countries, including France, the Netherlands and Sweden, already have national EPR schemes. Recycling and repurposing materials helps your buyers reduce waste and save resources.

What additional requirements and certifications do buyers often have?

In addition to mandatory requirements, there are many services that buyers implicitly expect or highly appreciate if you want to do business with them.

Product design and development

European buyers are always looking for unique designs, materials or production methods that will help them stand out in the market. For example:

• On-trend materials such as organza, chiffon, mesh, tulle, crochet, lace; sustainable fabrics including organic cotton, linen, Tencel™/Lyocell, viscose satin, silk blends, cupro, stretch jersey, rib knits, crochet, leather and vegan leather;
• Special finishes such as metallic and fluorescent (neon) coatings and prints, preferably using sustainable techniques;
• Stretch fabrics for extra comfort;
• Fabrics with soil-resistant, breathing, waterproof, anti-bacterial or UV-protective properties for athleisure and active wear;
• Quick drying, easy-iron and crease-resistant fabrics;
• Stay dark fabrics (colour fastness);
• Garment dyeing during production to increase flexibility.

Eco-design

Today, designers must consider the entire life cycle of a product, not just how it looks. Many European buyers want designs that can be easily recycled, repaired or reused, and that are made with sustainable materials. Moreover, they expect you to be able to provide information on the origins of the materials and help measure the total impact of the item. When it comes to designing for circularity, there are four main strategies in eco-design:

• Design for low waste: Reduce how much fabric is thrown away during production;
• Design for low-impact materials and processes: Use materials and production methods that have a low impact on the environment;
• Design for longevity: Use designs and materials that make products last longer;
• Design for recyclability: Make it easier to recycle parts of the product.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation offers an overview of the basic principles of circular fashion design. Several assessment tools can help you evaluate materials, such as the Higg Materials Sustainability Index and the Preferred Fiber & Materials (PFM) Benchmark.

Styles

There are many different types of skirts (from A-line to pleated to bubble) and dresses (from A-line to cocktail to prairie dress). Which types sell well depends largely on fashion trends, although there are classic styles, such as the ‘LBD’ (little black dress), slip dress, wrap dress and pencil skirt. Just as there are many lengths for skirts and dresses: from micro mini to maxi. The midi skirt remains a staple, but modest (longer length) skirts have become more popular in recent years. The same goes for airy, comfortable dresses with puffy sleeves. 

Printing

Printed skirts and dresses are often included in European fashion collections. There are different printing techniques: lithography (using printing plates and rollers on fabric); digital printing (inkjet and laser, allows for small production runs) and screen printing (transferring images onto fabric or garments using a fine material or mesh/film). Printing can be outsourced, but having your own printing and embroidery machines increases your flexibility.

Figure 2: Skirts in printed fabrics feature in many fashion collections

Source: Photographe EVJF GREG via Unsplash

To ensure quality (and in some cases also environmentally respectful production methods), buyers may require you to source your base materials at a preferred supplier or from a controlled source. For instance:

• Lenzing for Tencel®, Lenzing Viscose® or Lenzing Modal®;
• DuPont for Lycra®;
• Pima cotton;
• Woolmark wool.

Communication

Smooth communication is crucial. Always reply to emails within 24 hours, even if it is just to confirm that you have received the email and will send a longer reply later. If you have a problem with a production order, immediately let the buyer know and offer a solution. Create a critical path for every order and share it with your buyer. This is a list of every single step in the production and delivery process, and the time each step takes. This will help you manage expectations and monitor progress.

Flexibility

If you want to start a business relationship with a European buyer, be prepared to accept complicated orders at first. Buyers will want to test your factory before giving you large, easy orders. Make sure from the start that a buyer will not continue to place only difficult orders with you, and convenient orders elsewhere. Expect a European buyer to require in their first order:

• High material quality and impeccable workmanship;
• Order quantities below your normal minimum order quantity (MOQ);
• A lower price level than you would normally accept for small-quantity orders.

To increase flexibility, factories can install a sample room (to produce small orders), a modular production setup (an island instead of a production line), or a U-shaped setup, where employees can control several machines at the same time.

Speed to market

Manufacturing and delivering fast is an important requirement. European buyers try hard to minimise stock and order as late as possible. There are different ways to shorten lead times:

• Keep stock materials ready. Source from fabric suppliers that work with stock yarns and which can help you reduce manufacturing time. To increase efficiency and speed, make sure you have all the necessary materials, including fabrics, zippers, buttons (and other trims) and packaging materials available before you start production;
• Confirm lab dips (a small swatch of fabric to define colour and its recipe before it goes for bulk dyeing), trims and style before the final order is placed;
• To help plan your production capacity, ask your buyers for a seasonal sales forecast and regular sales updates.

What are the requirements for niche markets? 

Dresses and skirts have transformed from a typical spring/summer item into a basic for all seasons (made with heavier fabrics such as wool and cotton for winter styles). There are many interesting niches within this category. Niche brands usually offer smaller orders and require a relatively high service level.

Gala dresses (rental)

Gala dresses can be divided in different categories:

• Rental: dresses made with easy-care materials like polyester and designed to fit a wide range of women;
• Haute couture gala dresses: offered by haute couture brands and often handmade with high-quality materials such as silk or wool.

Wedding dresses

Wedding dresses are sold in different price categories. The majority are sold via specialised retail stores in which every price category is represented. Material requirements vary from polyester to silk. The dresses are tailored to meet the fit of the consumer. More expensive wedding dresses are made-to-measure. Read the CBI study on bridal wear for more information.

Corporate skirts and dresses

Matching dresses and skirts for corporate collections (used for instance by restaurant and hotel employees) are sold via specialised corporate wear vendors. These collections have very strict requirements regarding style, colour and care. Low MOQ and/or stock service are required. Read the CBI study on workwear for more information.

Convertible styles

An increasing number of brands is experimenting with shape-changing, convertible apparel that can be used for different occasions. Designs may include detachable layers, reversible styles, and adjustable lengths or parts that can be unzipped or untied to transform the item.

Adaptive wear

Adaptive apparel is a niche that caters to consumer groups with very diverse needs, such as disabled people and the elderly. Adaptive wear has very specific requirements regarding safety and functionality. Read the CBI study on adaptive apparel for more information.

Modest wear

Many people with an Islamic background prefer ‘modest’ styles. Source materials that obscure the female silhouette, so no fabrics that are too stretchy or thin. Read the CBI study on Islamic wear for more information.

Activewear, outdoor dresses

Dresses and particularly skirts can also be found in activewear/outdoor collections. A popular style in this category is the ‘skort’: an anti-chafing combination between a short and a skirt. Outdoor styles are designed for comfort and functionality and often require breathing, anti-bacterial and quick-drying properties.

Large and tall sizes

Skirts and dresses in large and/or tall sizes is a niche market that offers potential for European countries with relatively tall populations, like the Netherlands, Montenegro, Estonia and Denmark. Check, for instance, German brand Zizzi or the Dutch brand Longlady.

Figure 3: The dresses and skirts category includes styles for colder seasons, such as the knitted sweater dress

Source: Kateryna Hliznitsova via Unsplash 

2. Through which channels can you get dresses and skirts on the European market?

Before you approach European apparel buyers, you need to determine what market segment fits your company best and through which sales channel(s) you want to sell your product. 

How is the end market segmented?

European dresses and skirts buyers are best classified by price/quality level.

Table 1: Dresses and skirts market segmentation

Source: FT Journalistiek

The luxury consumer

In the luxury market, European brands like Versace, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana sell extremely fashionable, luxurious dresses and skirts at a very high retail price. The trends that are born here are translated to the lower segments of the fashion industry. Because buyers have extremely high standards regarding design, workmanship, material quality and brand image, production mostly takes place in Europe. 

The fashion-conscious consumer

The upper-middle market caters to fashion-conscious consumers. It is home to brands such as Zadig and Voltaire, Ted Baker and See by Chloe. Consumers appreciate brands for their brand image, original designs and high-quality materials. Smaller brands with a distinct sustainable profile such as Armed Angels, People Tree and KnowledgeCottonApparel operate in this segment. 

Practical consumers

Practical consumers shop in the middle market. Here you will find brands and retailers such as Zara or Benetton selling both fashionable and more functional styles. Focus is on washability, fit and medium-quality materials. Buyers may require organic fabrics. 

Price-conscious consumers 

Price-conscious consumers looking for both fashionable and more basic designs shop for dresses and skirts at large retail chains such as H&M (basic to fashionable), Primark (basic to fashionable), New Yorker (basic to fashionable), Piazza Italia (basic), HEMA (basic) and Carrefour (basic). Sustainable materials are in small demand, with notable exceptions such as C&A and Zeeman (organic cotton).

Through which channels does a product end up on the end market?

A buyer's place in the value chain determines how they will do business with you. Each buyer requires a specific approach. Always try to find out what part of the value chain your buyer is operating in, what challenges they face in the market, and how you can contribute to their sales strategy.

Figure 4 shows the many ways you can get your product on the European market, either via an intermediary, your own or other brands, retailers or online (multi-brand) platforms. Ideally, consumers can return apparel items to the seller after use, to be reused, repaired, refurbished or recycled.

Figure 4: Dresses and skirts market value chain

Source: FT Journalistiek

What is the most interesting channel for you?

As you move higher up the value chain, your margin will increase, and so will the service level your buyer expects from you. If you have little or no experience in exporting to Europe, intermediaries and brands are the best starting point. Such companies have the largest market share and service every price/quality segment in the market. Intermediaries and brands are also used to working with suppliers in different production countries worldwide.

3. What competition do you face on the European dresses and skirts market?

Dresses and skirts are manufactured worldwide, so you will likely face stiff competition in this market. The most important ways to create a competitive advantage over other countries and manufacturers are technical knowledge, service level, flexibility (the willingness to accept lower MOQ’s), efficiency and beneficial trade agreements.

Which countries are you competing with?

China, Türkiye and Italy used to provide the bulk of dresses and skirts production for the European market. China and Türkiye are still popular sourcing locations for European buyers, but due to price pressure, many other countries have started manufacturing dresses and skirts as well. 

Table 2: Competing dresses and skirts exporters

Source: FT Journalistiek

Unpredictable American trade policy affects competitiveness

In the first half of 2025, the United States carried out a highly unpredictable trade policy. Many developing countries on the list of exporters are facing tariffs higher than the 15% base rate. The new measures include tariffs of over 19% on products from all six top exporters of apparel to the USA (China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, India, Indonesia and Cambodia). Most of these tariffs are in effect as of 7 August 2025.

Expect higher competition from countries that are affected by these policies: they may (also) want to intensify trade with Europe as an alternative to trading with the USA.

Which companies are you competing with?

Neo Concept is a design-driven company based in Hong Kong, which manufactures for brands and retailers in Europe and the US. It originally started with privately owned factories in China, but expanded into Cambodia and Vietnam. Neo Concept manufactures dresses and skirts for European brands such as Cos, Tommy Hilfiger, Marc Cain and Zadig and Voltaire. The company is not the cheapest in the market, but well appreciated for its design, innovation and product quality.

Nehirli in Türkiye produces a wide range of apparel products, including dresses and skirts. The company supplies several European brands like WE, Jack & Jones, Zara, Camaïeu and Promod. Nehirli is certified for OCS, GRS, GOTS, Amfori BSCI and Sedex.

Creative Garments in India is a vertically integrated apparel factory supplying several European retailers, like Inditex and Decathlon, as well as budget market companies like Sainsbury’s and Carrefour. Creative Garments offers fabric production (wovens and knits), design and garment production. It has sales offices in the UK and Spain. Its website offers an extensive overview of the company's history and setup, as well as focusing on products.

Which products are you competing with?

Dresses and skirts are a staple of every woman’s wardrobe and have shown a strong growth performance in the last five years on the European market. The following product groups are competing with dresses and skirts. 

Athleisure 

Like many other apparel items, the rise of athleisure (including yoga wear and other sporty styles) is influencing the market for dresses and skirts, especially formal designs. Comfortable features like stretch do relatively well in dresses and skirts. Read the CBI study on fashion sportswear for more information.

Pants

Pants are an alternative for European women looking for more comfortable and informal apparel items, especially wider, airy styles made with lightweight and stretchy fabrics. Read the CBI study on pants and trousers for more information.

4. What are the prices of dresses and skirts on the European market?

The factory price of your product is influenced by many factors, such as the cost of materials, the efficiency of your employees and your overhead and profit margin. For a step-by-step guide on how to calculate the FOB price of an apparel item, read the CBI study on cost price calculation.

The average cost breakdown of your FOB price (Free On Board) should look something like this:

Source: FT Journalistiek

These percentages may vary per factory, per order and in time. Some factories accept lower profit margins during the off season, or when order volumes are high. In addition, percentages for labour versus fabrics may differ, depending on the efficiency and wage level of the workforce and the price of materials. Higher cost due to inflation, increasing taxes, sustainability requirements, lower quantities or near-shoring can also lead buyers to adopt bigger margins.

Retail pricing

The retail price of an apparel item is on average 4-8 times the FOB price (the ‘retail markup’). It follows that the FOB price is, on average, 12.5-25% of the retail price of the product.

Exceptions do occur. In the budget market, some large European retail chains may only double the FOB price. Luxury brands may multiply the FOB price by 7-12. Retailers mark up the FOB price by 4-8 because they need to account for (among other things) import duties, transport, rent, marketing, overhead, stockkeeping, markdowns and VAT (15-27% in EU countries).

Source: Eurostat, 2024

Europe’s most expensive countries for apparel

According to Eurostat’s 2024 comparison of retail prices for apparel in Europe, Denmark is the EU country with the highest price point compared to the European average (132.8), while Switzerland is the most expensive European country for apparel (143.4). Looking at Europe’s biggest importers of apparel, Italy has the highest apparel retail prices (107.8), followed by Poland (103) and Germany (101.4). Retail prices in Poland have especially increased in recent years.

FT Journalistiek carried out this study in partnership with Giovanni Beatrice on behalf of CBI.

Please review our market information disclaimer.